Rodarte A/W '10

18 February 2010


I was expecting a lot from Rodarte this time around; considering how intricate and empowering the whole "WARRIOR WOMAN" thing was last season.. but they definitely surprised me.
Thanks to the new wave of live streaming + ShowStudio, I got to watch the whole shabang live. Actually, because of the four hour time difference, that's pretty much the only show I saw - not looking at YOU or anything, Marc Jacobs - but hey ho.
After a lot of "check-one-two"-ing (and teeth-gritting from me) plus a billion camera flashes in Kiki Dunst's noggin (sometimes I am GLAD I'm not famous), eventually the lights went down. Kinda worried for Andre Leon from Vogue US with his gratuitously enormous fur coat when assistants began lighting up a white sculpture made of candles infront of him. So, the models started filing out and I had a sneaky look to see if there was any MORSEL of reaction from Ms Wintour but, alas, the usual stiff expression remained.
The collection began with a mishmash of hand-crafted patchwork knits and dreamy florals layered on long white - dare I say it - leggings, and paired with Nicholas Kirkwood candlestick heels, all bandaged-up like ballet shoes with ribbons. I've got to say, at this point my initial reaction was a defiant "COMFORT!!" cry of relief. Never has winter looked so snuggly and soothing.
Towards the end, a series of long ghostly dresses streamed along the confetti-scattered walkway. Even through t'internet you could feel the crowd tense up with anticipation at the first sight of a long chiffon train. Kate and Laura Mulleavy's skill and vision shone like the sculptural candles thereon. Ethereal, other-worldly gowns were brought forward with the models seeming to float down in a slumber, befitting the collection's inspiration of "sleepwalking and the murder of Mexican maquilladora workers in Juarez, Texas".
The piéce de résistance was the luminescent glow of UV lighting against the white fabrics, and the models, all statuesque with vacant expressions. I knew then that it had been the best show of NYFW.
I'm not sure if it was their intention but I had a shivery sort of feeling the whole way through; as if the whole venue was filled with a sleep-enducing fog. Hypnotising... must. buy. everything... ;)


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